Tartan and kilts

• It's a piece of woven cloth made up of horizontal and vertical stripes in different colours, on a coloured background 
• The interwoven stripes are known as a “sett” 
• Originally, clanspeople used local plants, mosses and berries to dye the wool 
• There are over 7,000 unique tartans on record – even the Obamas and Hello Kitty have their own tartan!   

Where did tartan come from?

Despite its close association with Scotland, the earliest sample of tartan was actually found in China from around 3000 BC. Its Scottish roots run deep though, dating back to the 3rd or 4th century. We’ve been using it to make kilts, bagpipes, rebellions and fashion-statements ever since.   

The Jacobite Rebellion

Fast forward a few centuries and we start to see tartan really exploding on the scene. Picture windswept romantics in the Highland countryside swathed in glorious Scottish tartan from head to toe. This is a popular conception of Scottish clans and their tartan, but it was the result of some clever Jacobite propaganda that’s added to myth and legend over the years.  

Bonnie Prince Charlie, Scotland’s roguish Jacobite hero, arrived on Scottish soil fully clad in tartan in 1745, using fashion to draw together the ancient strength of the Scottish clans to fight for the throne. Although the Jacobite rebellion was ultimately unsuccessful, tartan became so powerfully interwoven with the idea of Scottish identity and rebellion that it was banned by the British Government following the Battle of Culloden in 1746. 

Tartan today  

But tartan isn’t just about the past; it continues to weave its story across Scotland and the globe.  

It has always been at the forefront of modernity – the first ever colour photo was of a tartan ribbon and it’s even travelled to space! 

Tartan is just as easily found on a high fashion runway as part of school uniforms. In more recent years, some of the world’s biggest names in fashion have gravitated towards this fabric for its bold look and history of rebellion, from Chanel and Dior to Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen.  

Its uncanny ability to express tradition or undermine it – sometimes even at the same time – means it’s been powerfully adopted by causes and groups to represent their values and social conscience. It has connected LGBTQ+ communities with a shared identity, a tartan design was registered to represent the climate change summit COP26, and it’s been used to raise awareness of MND in honour of the legendary rugby player, Doddie Weir. There’s even a Homeless tartan – 20% of all sales of this fabric go to the charity Shelter Scotland.

From the poor to the rich, the franchised to the disenfranchised, tartan is a fabulously diverse, playful and complex material for everybody.   

Protected clan tartans

Protected clan tartans are specific tartan patterns that are reserved for certain families or organisations. This is typically at the request of a clan chief or tartan designer. Unlike most tartans, which anyone can wear, these protected designs require permission to be worn or produced. Probably the most famous example of this is the Balmoral Tartan, reserved for the British Royal Family.

The concept of protected tartans emerged in the 19th century as tartan became a symbol of Scottish identity and pride. The vast majority of clan tartans remain open to all, but a small number are protected. If you are unsure whether a tartan is protected, it is best to consult the Scottish register of tartans.