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Mary Macgregor produces luxury contemporary Fair Isle textiles. She launched her business, BAKKA, in December 2016.
Having extensively researched the market prior to launching, she realised that there was a gap at the fine gauge end; noone was producing fine Fair Isle knitwear. Her work fills that gap.
She also noticed that the oldest patterns were in danger of dying out through lack of use, so decided to find her inspiration uniquely in those motifs. Similarly, she has faithfully replicated the old natural colours.
In 2018 Macgregor perfected a way by which she could produce the traditional 4 or 5 colour patterns using a 2-colour knitting technique, thus creating her unique reversible Fair Isle textile. Instead of having the traditional loops of thread on the back of the fabric, Macgregor's fabric has the same pattern as on the front, but with the colours inverted. It was rather complicated to achieve, but the resulting fabric is so much more satisfactory as a 21st Century product that the effort was well worthwhile. She believes that this is the way of the future, and the market is confirming this. Sales are strong. To date noone has copied this technique.
Traditional Fair Isle has 2 colours in a row. However, the modern Shima Seiki knitting machines can accommodate 3 colours in a row. So, in the summer of 2020, she started colouring the Fair Isle motifs in a completely different way for knitting with this technique. It could be compared to exploring the 3D version of an architect's 2D drawing. The results are quite startling and totally modern, and the initial output is receiving many compliments. The third colour adds structure and fluidity to the piece. This is very much work in progress; an area which she is hoping to develop in the near future.
Macgregor's products are sustainable.
Macgregor works solely with the world renowned 100% superfine merino from Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia. Zegna Baruffa have operated in a sustainable fashion in every sense of the word, since 1850 It is second nature to them. They publish an annual sustainability report : https://www.baruffa.com/en/sustainability/ .
BAKKA operates a zero-waste policy. The production unit keeps all the machine setup routines and sample or failed pieces which are upcycled.
To summarise, Macgregor preserves and promotes Shetland's rich textile heritage by using the oldest Fair Isle patterns and colours in a sustainable contemporary manner.
Please visit the website for more information. https://www.bakkaknitwear.com
Also, BAKKA offers a small range of hand-knitted fisherman's haaf keps knitted in pure Shetland wool in the same colours as the principal collections. Also reversible cloche hats, knitted in a thicker version of the luxury 100% superfine merino yarn used in her regular work. These more practical hats are very popular. The cloche hats are fully lined for extra warmth. They are long, designed to come right down to your eyebrows and below the tips of your ears.
For the knitter, there is a collection of 6 knitting patterns in 3 sizes for traditional fisherman's keps.
BAKKA also sells Mary Macgregor's highly successful book 'Fair Isle Knitting Patterns' which can be autographed and personally dedicated for you.
BAKKA operates a mobile shop from her BAKKA SHOP van in the busy centre of Lerwick many days during the summer months. Please email to find out exact days or follow BAKKA on instagram.
